How to Be a Good Student

A good student is not a clever student only. If we talk about a good student, there are two important aspects that we must consider. We can say and decide a student is good if the student can fulfill these two important aspects, which are related with the student’s intelligence and behavior. If a student has a good intelligence and behavior, she or he must be a good student.
First is intelligence, intelligence is an important aspect besides behavior aspect, that determines whether a student can be a good student or not. In this case, intelligence means the student’s brain ability, how fast a student can understand a lesson, and the student’s ability to focus her or his mind on a lesson. Those are about the intelligence aspect and there is also the other aspect, which is as important as intelligence aspect in determining good or not a student is, it is behavior aspect.
Second is behavior, behavior is an important thing too, that must be had to be a good student. There are many things that are included in this aspect, such as the student’s behavior when she or he is in school or in society, the way she or he interacts with someone else, her or his ability to associate with her or his friends and so on.
People maybe always think that a good student is a student who always gets good marks. Of course, it is extremely wrong. A good student must have a good behavior too. I do not know why people still think that a good student is always related with a good mark, but actually the case is we cannot measure the student’s brain ability, even with a number. I do not think that the behavior aspect is more important than the intelligence aspect, because the behavior aspect cannot be measured too. I just think that a good student is a student that has a good intelligence and a good behavior balance.

Naruto Demon Guide - Bijuu, Tailed Beasts, Demons

Bijuu are demons that exist in the world of Naruto, they are also known in as demons in Japanese mythology. There are nine in total. Each one has an incredible amount of chakra within them, to try and combat these powerful beasts and stop the destruction they cause they were captured and sealed inside new born babies using a powerful technique that would kill the person using it. The Fourth Hokage was one of those people who sacrificed their life to seal a Bijuu and protect the world from chaos. When the human has a demon sealed inside them they are known as Jinchuriki. Every demon has a different amount of tails, ranging from one tail to nine.

One-Tailed Shukaku - Ichibi no Shukaku, takes the form of a racoon. This demon is sealed within Gaara of the Desert, because of this, Gaara has the ability to control the sand around him. Other translations include: Shukaku, One tailed Shukaku, Tanuki.

Two-Tailed Monster Cat - Nibi no Nekomata, takes the form of a two-tailed cat. This demon is sealed within Yugito Ni.

Three-Tailed Giant Turtle - Sanbi no Kyodaigame, takes the form of a three-tailed turtle. This demon was previously sealed within Yagura.

Four-Tailed Monkey - Yonbi no Saru, takes the form of a four-tailed gorilla. This demon is sealed within Rōshi.

Five-Tailed Dolphin Horse - Gobi no Irukauma, takes the form of a five-tailed dolphin-horse. This demon is sealed within Han.

Six-Tailed Slug - Rokubi no Namekuji, takes the form of six-tailed slug. This demon is sealed within Utakata.

Seven-Tailed Horned Beetle - Nanabi no Kabutomushi, takes the form of a seven-tailed beetle. This demon is sealed within Fū.

Eight-Tailed Giant Ox - Hachibi no Kyogyu, takes the form of a eight-tailed ushi-oni-like beast. This demon is sealed within Killer Bee.

Nine-Tailed Demon Fox - Kyuubi no Yoko, takes the form of a fox. This demon is sealed within Uzumaki Naruto who has incredible stamina and can summon large amounts of the Kyuubi's chakra. However Naruto has not yet learned how to fully control the awesome power of Kyuubi. Other translations include: Kyuubi, Nine Tailed Demon Fox, Kitsune.

Flow - Sign

I realize the screaming pain
Hearing loud in my brain
But I'm going straight ahead, with the scar
(Can you hear me So am I)
Wasurete shimaeba ii yo kanjinakunacchaeba ii
Surimuita kokoro ni futa o shitanda
Kizutsuitatte heikidayo mou itami wa nai kara ne
Sono ashi o hikizuri nagara mo
Miushinatta
Jibun jishin ga
Oto o tatete
Kuzureteitta
Kizukeba kaze no oto dake ga
Tsutaeni kitayo kizuato tadotte
Sekai ni oshitsubusarete shimau mae ni
Oboeterukana namida no sora o
Ano itami ga kimi no koto o mamotte kureta
Sono itami ga itsumo kimi o mamotterunda
(Can you hear me So am I)
Kizutsukanai tsuyosa yori mo
Kizutsukenai yasashisa o
Sono koe wa dokoka kanashisoude
Kakechigaeta
Botan mitai ni
Kokoro karada
Hanareteita
Mou ichido kokoro o tsukande
Tsutaeni kitayo kizuato tadotte
Sekai ni oshitsubusarete shimau mae ni
Oboeterukana namida no sora o
Ano itami ga kimi no koto o mamotte kureta
Sono itami ga itsumo kimi o mamotterunda
(Can you hear me So am I)
Mitsukekita
Ano nakigoe wa
Machigainaku sou
Jibun nodatta
Subete wa kono toki no tame ni
Kitto hajime kara wakkatetanda
Mou ni do to jibun dake wa hanasanaide
Kizuite kureta
Kimi he no aizu
Ano itami ga kimi no koto o mamottekureta
Tsutae ni kitayo kizuato tadotte
Sore nara mou osoreru mono wa naindatto
Wasurenaidene egao no wake o
Ano itami ga kimi no koto o mamottekureta
Ano itami ga kimi no koto o mamottekureta
Sono itami ga itsumo kimi o mamotterunda 
(Can you hear me so am I)

HARI RAYA!!!

Best tol raya rumah saudara mara...

Dapat duit banyak..haha

Raya rumah kawan....bergelak ketawa

Main mercun....patah tangan...hehe

Disini saya  mengambil kesempatan mengucap selamat

Hari raya maaf zahir dan batin...

Sedih tol x dapat raya kt kampung

huk....huk...

Tapi....

Nasib baik ada rumah saudara kt KL....

Best jugak la raya rumah saudara kt  KL.

Dapat banyak duit raya...tapi....

Dekat kampung lagi BANYOK....

Tahun ni puasa x best la...

Sembahyang terawih x leh main mercun...

Bengang tol la.

ALHAMDULILLAH AKHIRNYA AKU DAPAT PUASA PENUH...

biodata uchiha madara

Name: Madara Uchiha/Tobi From: Konoha Birthday: December 24 Age: Older than Konoha Village Blood type: O Height: 175cm Weight: 55.9kg Affiliation: Akatsuki Ring: 'Jewel' in kanji Ring Position: Left Thumb Finger Partner: Kisame Hoshigaki Weapon: Mangekyo Sharingan Hobbies: Plotting to rule the world. Looking down on Pain. Disguising as Tobi. Background: Madara Uchiha is the founder and benefactor of the high caliber criminal organization, Akatsuki. He is the first to use the revered technique among Uchiha clan, the Mangekyo Sharingan. He is once a great man of virtue but greediness got the best of him. The Deal with him: As the founder, his ultimate goal is to gain the enormous power of the tailed beasts and further strengthen his Eternal Mangekyo Sharingan. He has calm disposition and a cunning villainous personality. He appears before the group as Tobi and becomes Deidara's partner. In this disguise, he portrays a carefree almost childish personality. He wears a swirling mask with a left eyehole. Though Pain acts as the leader, his decisions are still based on Madara's opinions. Madara is not at all impressed with Pain and often picks on him. Either he's secretly insecure with Pain or he just loves power tripping.

Bristlebot: A tiny directional vibrobot

The starting point is of course the toothbrush.  We need one that has more-or-less uniformly angled bristles.  (While it may be possible to take one with straight  bristles and bend them to suit, I haven't tried.)  If the bristle length is nonuniform (as it is here),  it may take scissors to make the bristles all the same.
cut off the handle of the toothbrush, leaving only a neat little robotics platform.
Next, we need a vibrating pager motor or other tiny motor with an unbalanced output shaft.  If you should happen to find a small enough motor you can always add the weight yourself, but usually motors this size are made for pagers anyway.  I got mine on eBay for a few bucks; you can also get them here, for example. The kind that I got are happy to run on almost any common voltage-- probably a range of 1-9 V. As a power source, you can use an alkaline or lithium coin cell or watch battery, either 1.5 V or 3 V.  To hook the motor to the battery I soldered short copper wire leads to the motor terminals.
The last substantial ingredient is some foam tape.  Apply a small piece to the top of the toothbrush robotic platform, which will be used to hold the motor in place.
Attach the motor to the foam tape.  The tape provides a spacer so that the rotating weight  does not hit the toothbrush head.  It also provides a strong, flexible connection  to the base that is able to handle the severe vibration that this robot experiences.  A first approach to hooking up the battery might be to stand it on end.  However, the battery itself is not held in place very well this way and will fall out shortly.
A better method is to bend one of the leads down flush with the foam tape,  so that you can *stick* the battery to the foam tape as well and still make an electrical connection. The other lead contacts the other side of the battery,  and the motor can run. The completed BristleBot, running and ready for action.  When you set one down, you may notice that it tends to steer left or right.  We have found that battery and motor placement,  bristle shape (one stray long bristle can interfere with the motion,  and motor rotation direction all influence the behavior- so be sure  to try flipping the battery upside down if you have trouble getting yours to go straight. Now and for the record,  this is one of many different kinds of vibrobots-- there are a  lot of other designs out there if you go and look.  We have heard of and seen many other vibrating robots, and we know that even using a brush with angled bristles for propulsion has been done before. However, this particular miniature implementation may be unique, and is certainly fun. Very few robots that you can build so easily are so rewarding. With the right parts, you can make one in a few minutes.  It might be great fun to make a bunch of them to race them competitively.

A Simple and Cheap Dark-Detecting LED Circuit

. Here's a simple problem: "How do you make an LED turn on when it gets dark?" You might call it the "nightlight problem," but the same sort of question comes up in a lot of familiar situations-- emergency lights, street lights, silly computer keyboard backlights, and the list goes on.
Solutions? Lots. The time-honored tradition is to use a circuit with a CdS photoresistor, sometimes called a photocell or LDR, for "light-dependent resistor." (Circuit Example 1, Example 2.) Photoresistors are reliable and cost about $1 each, but are going away because they contain cadmium, a toxic heavy metal whose use is increasingly regulated. There are many other solutions as well. Look here for some op-amp based photodetector circuits with LED output, and check out some of the tricks used in well-designed solar garden lights, which include gems like using the solar cell itself as the sensor. (Our own solar circuit collection is here.)
In this article we show how to build a very simple-- perhaps even the simplest-- darkness-activated LED circuit. To our LED and battery we add just three components, which cost less than thirty cents altogether (and much less if you buy in bulk). You can build it in less than five minutes or less (much less with practice).
What can you do with such an inexpensive light-controlled LED circuit? Almost anything really. But, one fun application is to make LED throwies that turn themselves off in the daytime to save power. Throwies normally can last up to two weeks. Adding a light-level switch like this can significantly extend their lifetime.

 

Here are our components: On top: a CR2032 lithium coin cell (3 V). On the bottom (L-R): the LED, an LTR-4206E phototransistor, a 2N3904 transistor, and a 1 k resistor. This LED is red, blindingly bright at 60 candela, in a 10 mm package. It casts a visible beam, visible for about twenty feet in a well-lit room. We got the LEDs and batteries on eBay, and the other parts are from Digi-Key, but Mouser has them as well. As we mentioned, the last three cost about $0.30 all together, and much less in bulk.
The LTR-4206E is a phototransistor in a 3mm black package. The black package blocks visible light, so it is only sensitive to infrared light-- it sees sunlight and incandescent lights, but not fluorescent or (most) discharge lamps-- it really will come on at night.
Our starting point is the simplest LED circuit: that of the LED throwie, which has an LED driven directly from a 3V lithium coin cell. (Funny looking example here.) From this, we add on the phototransistor, which senses the presence of light, and we use its output to control the transistor, which turns the LED on.

The circuit diagram looks like this; please ignore the messy handwriting. ;)
When light falls on the phototransistor, it begins to conduct up to about 1.5 mA, which pulls down the voltage at the lower side of the resistor by 1.5 V, turning off the transistor, which turns off the LED. When it's dark, the transistor is able to conduct about 15 mA through the LED. So, the circuit uses only about 1/10 as much current while the LED is off. One thing to note about this circuit: We're using a red LED. That's because the voltage drop across the transistor allows less than the full 3 V across the LED. The full three volts is really only marginal for driving blue LEDs anyway, so two-point-something really doesn't cut it. (Might be able to work around that with a cheap FET-- haven't tried yet.)

And now, let's build it. You can certainly put this together on a breadboard, but there's something more satisfying about the compact and deployable build that we walk through here.

First get the transistor and the resistor. The pins of the 2N3904 are called (left-to-right) Emitter, Base, Collector, when viewing it from the front such that you can read the writing. We're going to solder the resistor between the leads of the Base and Collector of the transistor. Unusual part: hold the resistor with its leads at 90 degrees to those of the transistor while you solder.
Stay safe when you do this: Use Mr. Hands.
After soldering, clip off the excess resistor lead that is attached to the transistor base (middle pin), as well as the excess length of the collector

Next, we add the phototransistor. Note that it has a flatted side, much like an LED does. This pin on that side is the collector of the phototransistor. Solder the collector (flatted side) to the middle pin (the base) of the transistor, again at 90 degrees. The other pin of the phototransistor, the emitter, is left unconnected for the moment. (Here is an alternate view of what that should look like when you're done.)
Finally, we need to add the LED. To do so, we need to know which side is the "positive," or anode side of the device. Regrettably markings of LEDs are not consistent, so the best way to be sure is to test it with the lithium coin cell-- put the LED across the terminals of the cell and, when it lights up, note which side is touching the (+) terminal. (Usually, it's the one with the longer lead.) Solder the "positive" lead of the LED to the emitter pin of the transistor-- it's the one on the left, which doesn't have anything soldered to it. Trim away the excess lead of the LED that goes past the solder joint. Solder the other pin of the LED (the "negative" pin, or cathode) to the emitter of the phototransistor, the pin on the non-flatted side, which does not have anything connected to it yet.

By this point, there are only two pins sticking down below the components: One that goes to the resistor and collector (rightmost pin) of the transistor, and one that goes to the emitter of the phototransistor and to the cathode of the LED.

To test the circuit, squeeze the coin cell between these two terminals, positive side goes to the lead touching the resistor. You can't see the LED on here because these photos were taken with incandescent lighting-- it wouldn't turn on.

Bending the leads to contact the lithium cell a little more reliably, you can try it out a little more easily. In the photo on the right, I cupped my hand over the circuit-- so the LED turned on.

To make this into an actual "throwie," you still need to add some tape and a magnet, but that's quite easily done. This one makes a pretty good nightlight attached to the top of a doorframe-- when the room lights are off, it shines a bright, bright spot on the ceiling.
Where to go from here? While this little circuit can do something on its own, it would probably also be happy as part of a larger circuit. At a minimum, note that if you work with batteries that have lower internal resistance than the lithium coin cells, you should place an appropriate resistor in series with the battery before trying to operate this circuit-- or else you may put too much current through the LED. Certainly, this is one of the easiest and least expensive ways to control an LED with a photosensor. (Unlike, say, this method?) You could also consider crossing it with some more extreme mods, like the Talkie Throwies that know Morse code, or for more extreme hackers, bagel throwies.